Clik here to view.
An early start to the decandling season
The decandling season is starting earlier than normal for me this year. I’m looking to prepare a few trees for an exhibit in September but the pines in my garden usually grow through October and into...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Bonsai Development Series #7: Preparing the next sacrifice branch
I’m working on a number of five and six-year-old pines. Several look like the tree below, with vigorous growth on the top half of the tree and smaller shoots below. Five-year-old red pine – 27″ I’d...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Early stage development on field-grown black pines
Working on field-grown material a few years out of the ground is some of my favorite work. The main objectives for this early stage development are to heal wounds, create the upper sections of the...
View ArticleClik here to view.
An unprompted second flush of growth on black pine
In general, we can expect black and red pines to produce a single flush of growth all year. If we remove this growth at the right time, we can expect a second flush to grow in the same calendar year....
View ArticleClik here to view.
Early appearance of summer buds and a decandling tip
Seeing a note on my calendar to finish decandling a pine, I headed outside and brought the pine below into the workshop. Partially decandled black pine The idea was to remove the weaker shoots ahead of...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Follow-up – defoliating a shohin Japanese maple
I fully defoliated a shohin Japanese maple about six weeks ago. Here’s what the tree looked like after removing all of the leaves. Shohin Japanese maple – April 30 After a week, small buds started to...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Increasing density on a cork-bark black pine
I’ve been working on an old cork-bark black pine since 2004. The tree has improved a lot over the years, but it still has a ways to go. The main focus at this stage is increasing the branch density....
View ArticleClik here to view.
Bonsai Development Series #8: Removing unnecessary branches
When developing material for bonsai, it’s best to avoid creating straight trunks and branches. Many varieties, however, naturally produce straight growth. This gives us two options: cut or wire....
View ArticleClik here to view.
Bare-root azalea follow-up
Back in February I potted up around 60 bare-root satsuki azalea bonsai. Having not worked with bare-root specimens before, I was really curious to see how the trees would do with so few roots. Most...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Before and after – cutback and decandling exposed root black pines in...
I thought I was nearing the end of decandling season when I remembered a table of black and red pines trained as exposed root bonsai. My standard approach is to not decandle exposed root pines until...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Repotting young chojubai in summer
This past spring, as the deciduous bonsai in my garden began to leaf out, I noticed several dwarf flowering quince began to die back. Over the next two months, about half of these chojubai died. I...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Side-veneer graft aftercare – bag technique
When performing side-veneer grafts on conifers, it’s important to provide extra humidity for the scions to prevent them from drying out. Two popular approaches for doing this are to cover the scion...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Enjoying potentilla in bloom
I’ve enjoyed growing a small potentilla for the last two years. As a deciduous shrub, I can appreciate the structure of the branches in winter and enjoy the flowers in summer. Potentilla in bloom...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Summer show prep: repotting black pine in July
With the fall bonsai exhibits still two months away, now’s a great time for some last minute show prep. The owner of the pine below plans to exhibit the tree in the U.S. National Bonsai Exhibition in...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Bringing new trees into the garden: coast redwood
One thing I like to do when I bring new trees into the garden is to give them a close look. I don’t always stop to appreciate all of a tree’s good or bad points when I’m shopping so I try to take the...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Removing wire from an old grafted Shimpaku
If you haven’t checked the wired trees in your garden to see if any wire is cutting in, now’s a good time to do so. I often wire a lot of trees over winter or in early spring and by this time of year a...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Can you see the signs? Identifying weak roots by checking the foliage
I acquired a number of field-grown shimpaku junipers earlier this year. Most are growing well. Healthy juniper The best signs of health, in this case, are the green color and the handful of elongating...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Bonsai Development Series #9: Evaluating sacrifice branches mid-season
For my young trees in development, I tend to focus on a single question during the growing season: do I prune now or wait until fall? Chinese quince – four years old from seed The goal at this stage is...
View ArticleClik here to view.
Defoliation follow-up: refining a Korean hornbeam
Two months ago I partially defoliated a mature Korean hornbeam (see “Focus on defoliation” for details). After defoliation – May 2018 I’d been curious about the effect of removing more leaves than...
View ArticleClik here to view.
When to graft and when to bend: evaluating branch structure
Since repotting a neglected San Jose juniper last fall, I’ve been thinking about the tree’s options for future development. The main question is whether to work with the existing branches or graft new...
View Article